Thursday, February 17, 2011

Some (of the many) Cultural Differences

I have learned so much about Spanish culture in just seven weeks. Ironically, I have learned much about American culture as well. Here is a list of some cultural differences I have noticed so far:

Time

Spain is six hours ahead of the East Coast. This does not, however, mean that Spain's schedule coincides six hours ahead of America's. Everything starts much later here. This is not to say that people do not get up early (in fact, my host father leaves at 4:30 am every morning to go to work). However, the standard business hours of 9-5 that we are so accustomed to in the States do not exist in Spain. As I mentioned earlier, shops, restaurants, and businesses close for a couple of hours mid-day for comida (lunch) and siesta (rest). School is no exception; there are no classes conducted from 3:00-4:30. Since the large meal of the day is eaten around 2:00-3:00 pm, dinner is eaten much later. We eat dinner around 9:00-9:30 pm! And while this might be disconcerting to an American, (you might be wondering how someone could possibly eat dinner an hour before bed-time) this is the norm in Spain. People do not go to bed at 11:00 pm. Dinner is fully digested before bedtime.

On the weekends, the younger crowd usually goes out around midnight. (Mom, you can stop reading). The hardcore Spaniards don't go out until 1:00 or 2:00 am! The "good" clubs don't get crowded until around 4:00am. An early night means going home at 3:30. A late night night means getting home when it is light out, around 7:00 am. Although this schedule has been somewhat difficult to adjust to, for the sake of cultural immersion, I have learned to adapt. If this means sleeping in until it's time for comida on Saturday, so be it! (Remember, I'm only doing it for the
cultural reasons). I am enjoying this lax schedule now, as I know I am in for the rudest of awakenings when I return home. In case you forget about the time difference, don't fret! We are probably on the same sleep schedule anyway.

A Spaniard's concept of time is unlike that of an American's as well. "Meet at 5:00" really means meet around 5:00, but more like 5:15-5:20. Professors and students alike are often late for class. "Tranquilo" (calm) is the Spanish mantra. I must have some Spanish blood in me, because I have been abiding by this concept of time my entire life!

Food

This could be an entire post in itself, but I'll try to give the brief version. As I mentioned before, breakfast is a light meal that consists of toast, fruit, and coffee. Comida (lunch) is the largest meal of the day and takes place around 2:00-3:00 pm. Dinner is lighter than lunch and is usually around 9:00-10:00 pm. My señora, Lourdes, is an excellent, health-conscious (or so she assures me) cook. She makes nearly everything from scratch! A typical comida might be paella (saffron rice, chicken, and vegetables), a pasta dish (similar to lasagna), or a piece of chicken, lamb, or ham with salad. We also usually have chicken soup or vegetable puree with comida. For dinner, Lourdes often makes these delicious salads with oranges, apples, kiwi, pasta, and lettuce. Another typical dish is tortilla española -- an egg omelette with potatoes.

Some common staples in the Spanish diet:
  • Ham
I hardly eat ham in the US, but the ham here is delicious. Plus, it is prevalent in many dishes, so I really have no choice! The Spanish obsession with ham does not stop at mealtime. Spaniards snack on ham, too. You guessed it, there are even ham-flavored Pringles here.






















Okay, curiosity got the better of my roommate and me. We shared this canister of foreign-flavored Pringles, and I hate to admit it, but they aren't really that gross. Once you pop, you just can't stop (even if they are pork-inspired).
  • Olive oil
If food is fried here, it is fried in olive oil. Olive oil is used for cooking, dressing salads, and many other purposes. Even the soap in our bathroom contains olive oil. The olive oil here is amazing. I'd love to take a bottle or two back home with me, if only I had another suitcase or two...
  • Bread
Lots and lots of bread. Breakfast is toast or a little muffin. People walk home before lunch with a foot-long baguette poking through their backpacks. And best/worst of all, a basket of freshly-cut bread stares at me at every lunch and every dinner. I wish I could say the contents of this basket were filled with whole grains, but I can't. Nope. Spaniards eat white bread. As a weight-conscious-ish American, I should be horrified at the ubiquity of this bleached concoction. However, a) it tastes really good and b) cultural immersion beckons once more. Whole grains or no grains or whatever await me as soon as I get home. For now, I will avoid eye contact with the bread basket as much as I can, but I am only human, and what's that saying? When in Spain...

Another cultural difference lies in the concept of an on-the-go lunch. A Spaniard's idea of a bagged lunch is hardly that of an American's. Whenever we go on weekend trips, Lourdes packs us a "bolsa de bocadillos" (literally, a bag of sandwiches). This is not the brown-bagged PB&J lunch we are familiar with in the States. When we went to Madrid last weekend, Lourdes packed my roommate, Mallory, and me an obscene amount of food. Each bag included three sandwiches: one ham and cheese, one with grilled chicken, and one baguette filled with tortilla
española (Spaniards don't do 'low-carb'). Lourdes also tossed in two oranges, two apples, and an entire sleeve of cookies. Luckily we only have bagged lunches occasionally or else I might need to book two seats for the flight home.


Oh, one other cultural difference: Clothes dryers! They are rare here. Because electricity is so expensive, most homes (including mine) do not have clothes dryers. Instead, they hang everything on clotheslines throughout the year. It has taken a bit of getting used to, but now I know that if it's rainy, it will take a couple extra days to get my laundry back. I have a new-found appreciation for soft clothes and soft towels! There is nothing like stepping out of the shower and drying off with a towel with the softness of an S.O.S. pad. Oh well, I'm not complaining!
















A view of the clotheslines from my window.


Here's to celebrating cultural differences! I will come back to America running late, craving new foods, and raving about the marvel that is the Whirlpool clothes dryer.

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

More Recapping: Portugal!

January 25-28: Lisbon, Portugal

Because we had the next few days off before our actual classes began, most of the students in the group did some independent traveling. A group of about twelve of us decided to go to Lisbon, Portugal. I had essentially no existing knowledge about Portugal, but we had found an inexpensive flight and hostel online so it seemed like a good opportunity to explore.

It turned out to be an amazing trip! We stayed at Yes!Hostel, ranked #2 Hostel Worldwide in 2010 by Hostelworld.com (a happy coincidence). Luckily, the staff there gave us some suggestions as far as what to do and see in Lisbon. We toured the Castelo de São Jorge, an impressive fortress with incredible views of Lisbon. The weather wasn't so bad, either (sunny and low-60s!).

The following day, we took atrain to Sintra, a historical town about 45 minutes from the center of Lisbon. The group of us walked around and toured The Moorish Castle (I doubled my amount of visits to a castle in just one weekend). This castle, built some time in the 9th century, had breathtaking views as well.

Portugal proved to be both a worthwhile trip and a welcomed reprieve from Spanglish. Many of the people we encountered spoke English! Despite my best efforts, however, I only managed to improve my Portuguese language skills by one word: obrigada ("thank you").

Since this trip was a continuation of the last, I still lacked a charged camera battery. Thus, I take no credit for the following pictures (stolen from friends):
















A warm welcome to Portugal
































Trolley!
















View of Lisbon
















Tiled street in Lisbon





































A cathedral in Lisbon
































Inside the Castelo de São Jorge
(I couldn't get over how green the grass was -- in January!)

















View of some of Lisbon's colorful buildings from inside the
Castelo de São Jorge
































Castelo de São Jorge
















Amazing view from the Moorish Castle in Sintra
















Moorish Castle


Thank you to Lauren, Maricella, and Sarah for sharing your photos!
I will never forget my battery charger again.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

More Adventures: Córdoba, Sevilla, and Granada

January 22-25:

Part of the reason I decided on this particular program (American Institute for Foreign Study) was because it included a few guided excursions around Spain. After orientation, the group of us traveled to Andalucía, the southern region of Spain.

Córdoba (Core-doe-bah)

First, we took a long bus ride to Córdoba where we saw the impressive La Mezquita. Here are a few images from inside the cathedral-mosque and the surrounding courtyards:




















































Orange trees in the courtyard! Don't be fooled by the balmy appearance. We happened to travel to Sevilla on the coldest day on record in over twenty years! I still can't complain, of course, as "cold" in Sevilla means low-40s.





















My friend, Maricella, and me after walking down Calleja de las Flores
(Street of Flowers).































The city of Córdoba and the Guadalquivir River.



Sevilla (Say-
vee-yuh)

Next, we traveled to Sevilla where we saw the Plaza de España, Reales Alcázares de Sevilla, and the Catedral de Sevilla:































Plaza de España
















Part of the group!
















The Moorish fort-turned-royal-palace



































Inside the Real Alcázar



















































View of Sevilla from the bell tower





















Forgive me, but I was a little bit ecstatic to find a Starbucks in Spain. After over two weeks of living in a foreign country and not having iced coffee, I mustered up enough Spanglish to order this delicious concoction. Best 2 € I have spent thus far!

Last Stop: Granada

On the final leg of our weekend excursion, the 28 of us ventured to Granada. We took a tour of the Alhambra, the famous Moorish fortress. I was also fortunate enough to see an authentic flamenco show! The show was performed at a cramped hole-in-the-wall type "studio" near the Alhambra. Michelle Obama attended a flamenco show at the same venue this past summer! Unfortunately, my camera battery died during the tour of the Alhambra so some of these images are borrowed from friends:























































Where Washington Irving wrote Tales of the Alhambra, "a collection of essays and verbal sketches" (according to Wikipedia).























Views of Granada from the Alhambra












View of Sierra Nevada
















Some tourist at the Alhambra





















The Generalife Gardens
















(Photo of a photo)

Michelle Obama at the flamenco show we attended in Granada!


I loved our weekend trip to Andalucía: History, beauty, culture, and Starbucks to boot!

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Settling In

January 9-22

After a weekend in London (a smooth transition into Europe, sans language-barrier), the 28 of us in the group headed to Salamanca, Spain: our home for the next four and a half months. I had no idea what to expect. It wasn't until the bus ride from Madrid to Salamanca that our resident director, Gaye, told each of us which family we would be living with. Gaye took my map of Salamanca, wrote, "Lourdes Martín," and circled the apartment's location. "Ookay..." I thought. No backing out now.

Our "new" families awaited us as we got off the bus. I was greeted by a fifty-something-year-old woman who kissed me on each cheek (not quite the American handshake) and wasted no time acclimating my ear to rapid-paced Spanish. My señora, Lourdes, (pronounced "Lure-dace") and her son, Ángel,(pronounced "On hell"...how ironic) brought my roommate and me to our new home: an apartment on the eighth floor. As we settled into our room, Lourdes prepared paella, a typical Spanish dish with saffron rice, chicken, and vegetables. My anxiety lessened as I knew I'd be in for a treat (at least food-wise) for the semester.

The next day, Lourdes called us for "desayuno" (breakfast). A typical breakfast consists of toast, fruit, and coffee with warm milk. Nothing is on-the-go here. We sit down for breakfast every morning which has been a welcomed change from my daily grab-the-yogurt-and-go morning ritual back home. After taking a placement test and exploring a bit, my roommate and I walked home for "comida" (lunch--the biggest meal of the day in Spain). Comida is usually around 2:30-3:00 pm. All of the stores, restaurants, and schools close from about 2:30-4:00 pm every day. Everyone returns home to eat and relax, as comida is followed by siesta -- a socially-acceptable mid-day nap! Needless to say, I have embraced the Spanish routine wholeheartedly.

Our orientation course, an "intensive language class," took place for the next two weeks. The five-hour course, broken up into language, conversation, culture, and art sections, was somewhat draining, but it helped us adjust to communicating in Spanish (plus, we earned three credits in two weeks, so I really shouldn't complain!)

Here are a few pictures of Salamanca, with many more to come:

(Click to make the images larger).



Living / dining room in the homestay
(This is where we eat all of our meals; the kitchen is Lourdes' domain!)



A typical breakfast. The oranges here are to-die-for.



One of the many churches in Salamanca



Inside the New Cathedral (Catedral Nueva)


One of the university buildings.
(Note the skull with the frog on its head; apparently if you can spot the frog, you will have good luck).

Shell House (Casa de las Conchas)
The exterior features one shell for each day of the year. The interior houses a library.


Typical streets in Salamanca













The Plaza Mayor (center of Salamanca) during the day
(I hate to brag, but it has been in the upper 50s-low 60s here lately! Note all the people gathering outside in February!)

















The Plaza Mayor at night! This is where everyone gathers to go out.

More on Salamanca later!